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Volume 21, Issue 1

Spring 2021

ISSN 1529-3262

EISSN 1533-8622

In this Issue

Food and Power
Care, Work, and Memory
Interrogating the Chef
COVID-19 Dispatches
Reviews

Editorial Letter

James Farrer

Contributors

Food and Power

A Seat at the Table: The Western Dining Table as a Symbol of Power

Mackensie Griffin

“The Child Needs Milk and Milk Needs a Market”: The Politics of Nutrition in the Interwar Yishuv

Efrat Gilad

Ketchup as a Vegetable: Condiments and the Politics of School Lunch in Reagan’s America

Amy Bentley

Care, Work, and Memory

Paqueteros and Paqueteras: Humanizing a Dehumanized Food System

Alyshia Gálvez

“If you haven’t shaoguo’ed, you haven’t eaten”: Sensorial Landscapes of Belonging in the Kitchens of Rural China

Erin Thomason

Ruby’s Oyster Dressing, or Edible Nostalgia

Matthew Meduri

Interrogating the Chef

MasterChef: A Master Class in Fight, Flight, or Flambé?

Andrea Oskis

Around the World in 50 Restaurants: The Curious Irony of Hyperlocal Food

John Broadway

Spilling Ink and Cleaning Oil: The Intersection of Disaster and Design at La Marine

Rasmus R. Simonsen

COVID-19 Dispatches

Rumor, Chinese Diets, and COVID-19: Questions and Answers about Chinese Food and Eating Habits

Michelle T. King; Jia-Chen Fu; Miranda Brown; Donny Santacaterina

Food Rescue Networks and the Food System

Leda Cooks

Feeding the City, Pandemic and Beyond: A Research Brief

Bryan Dale; Jayeeta Sharma

Lunch Interrupted! COVID-19 and Japan’s School Meals

Alexis Agliano Sanborn

“Muita Galinha, Pouco Ovo”: Food, COVID-19, and the Screen That Separates Us

Yara Ferreira Clüver

Bean Soup

Sayzie Koldys

Succulent

Alison Pearlman

Drinking to the Wolf in a Time of Pandemic (or War or Peace)

Gregory Emilio

Reviews

Review: El Susto, by Karen Akins

Melissa Fuster

Review: Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water, by Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt

David Gentilcore

Review: Black Food Geographies: Race, Self-Reliance, and Food Access in Washington, D.C., by Ashanté M. Reese

Chhaya Kolavalli

Review: De los plátanos de Oller a los Food Trucks: Comida, alimentación y cocina puertorriqueña en ensayos y recetas, by Cruz Miguel Ortiz Cuadra

Mónica B. Ocasio Vega

Review: When Banana Ruled, by Mathilde Damoisel

Alyssa Paredes

Review: Stirrings: How Activist New Yorkers Ignited a Movement for Food Justice, by Lana Dee Povitz

Chris Staysniak

Review: The Chile Pepper in China: A Cultural Biography, by Brian R. Dott

Mark Swislocki

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Japanese Immigrants’ Pantry: Creating Eating Habits and Identities with Brazilian Ingredients

Household and Community Gardens Surge in the Philippines and Senegal during COVID-19: How Do Contrasting Models Speak to Different Visions for Future Food Systems?

Roundtable: The Great Italics Debate

Digesting Peru in Brooklyn: The Flavor of Culinary Nationalism

Review: Once Was Water, by Christopher Beaver and Diana Fuller

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