A Roman Anchovy's Tale author David Downie investigates contemporary Roman uses of salted anchovies, comparing them to the garum, liquamen, muria, colatura, and hallex fish sauces, pastes and brines of antiquity. His point of departure is a self-styled "archeological restaurant" in the Italian capital, Magna Roma, where co-owner Luciano Carigato and colleagues make authentic garum following an Imperial-era recipe. Downie also discusses regional variations of ancient fish sauces, specifically hallex (fermented fish paste), such as Ligurian machet and southern French mlets, still made today on the Italian and French Riviera.
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