It’s a sunny spring morning in San Francisco. In the Bay Area, we’re on the traditional and ancestral territory of the Ohlone People, though now Indigenous Peoples of many nations find their home on these lands.

My colleagues and I traveled to the Bay Area to meet with a few “cellular agriculture” start-ups. This morning is our first visit of several this week. We’re in the “Dogpatch” neighborhood. Subway tracks line the main street. We are surrounded by a mix of older industrial heritage buildings and some newer ones with a similar style, only shinier. Some of the old warehouses look as if they’ve been converted to loft apartments. There is an air of gentrification.

We walk into a tall and wide industrial building, passing through the spacious hallways, with big gray tiles on the floor and seemingly endless rows of metal doors. The ceilings are high, with pipes, vents,...

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