Many of us got into food scholarship because we love food, but we also worry about food—the quality of food, the quantity of food, and the lives and struggles of people who bring food to the table. Put simply, food writers and food scholars are often food worriers. Certainly, there is no shortage of issues to be worried about: hunger and malnutrition, climate change, worker exploitation, an obesophobic culture and diet industry, massive animal suffering, and a shocking concentration of power, money, and resources in food chains that transcend national borders. When we attend food conferences and read food-related journals, we witness deep convictions about the need for more justice and sustainability in the food system. Indeed, some of the seminal texts in food scholarship, like Sidney Mintz’s classic work, Sweetness and Power, are focused on the ways that food is implicated in capitalist (neo)colonial systems that exploit workers...

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