What are they? If you’re cozied up in polite company, perhaps you’d rather not know. But look, don’t get all freaked out on the supposed grossness of these delectable snacks: as far as fried foods go (the best way to prepare them) they’re light years ahead of that soggy mess you inhaled at the bowling alley last night, and certainly less weird than fried Mars bars. They’re crunchy, satisfying, and oh-so-finger-lickin’-good.

Wild food and organ meats might be the next frontier, but what is there beyond tongue, heart, liver, and kidney? Thank God for April Bloomfield’s nose-to-tail eating and the Bourdain ethos becoming mainstream. This under-the-belly delicacy might turn into the next crowd-pleasing favorite at holidays, homecomings, and tailgating blowouts. I’m very much in favor of expressing reverence for the hunted animal, but there’s no ruling against that veneration coming in the form of a little fun.

Here’s the traditional...

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