I didn’t ask for a lobster, but it came anyway.

In April 2020, I started buying from Four Star Seafood and Provisions, a San Francisco restaurant supplier that had resorted to selling pristine seafood, meat, produce, and fancy pantry items directly to consumers—at reasonably dear prices, with a modest additional fee for regional delivery. Four Star sources both locally (little fishing operations, small family farms, artisanal producers) and from international distributors (hence, kampachi from New Zealand). You can order semi-boneless Wolfe Ranch quail, Alaskan halibut cheeks, farmed branzino from Turkey, razor clams, ramps, foraged sea beans, pistachio flour, Humphry Slocombe black sesame ice cream, date vinegar, and a $1,250 jamón Ibérico (which I imagine is a joke). And you can do it while dozing through a Zoom in your home office. You can spend $200 before you get out...

You do not currently have access to this content.