Where does a great recipe begin? In the mind of the chef? In the heart of a cuisine? In the archive? Or, perhaps, in a collaboration between those whose job it is to cook food and those who study its many aspects? Bulrush restaurant in St. Louis doesn’t have Rob Connoley’s name on it and, in many ways, that’s a reflection of how he cooks. Connoley is from St. Louis, Missouri, with family roots in the Ozarks going back to the 1840s and personal roots in academia, not-for-profits, and, most recently, cooking. He earned a doctorate from Purdue in the Social Psychology of Sport and Exercise, and after a career in nonprofit executive management, he turned to kitchens. The menu at Bulrush is the product of a wide-ranging web of collaborations and deep dives into a range of stories...

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