For me at least, that recipe is at last the one I have been looking for. I can change it as I will…but basically it is right with my childhood dream…And yet…yet those will always be, in my mental gastronomy, on my spiritual taste buds, the most delicious oysters I never ate.

—M. F. K. Fisher, Consider the Oyster

  • 1. My grandmother Ruby had been a home baker most of her adult life out of necessity. She would wake up at four every Thursday morning, bake several dozen loaves of bread and hundreds of cinnamon rolls late into the afternoon, while her customers, friends and community members from their small village of Brady Lake would stop by the house to pay for and pick up their orders. Despite my grandfather’s employment at the local waterworks and his moonlighting as a house painter, Ruby’s baking was the supplemental income needed to...

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