This article critiques the South Korean government's strategies to globalize Korean cuisine (hansik) for its First World bias and for overlooking important dynamics that are operating locally. In particular the discourse as expressed on the Korean Food Foundation website demonstrates this desire to be accepted by the West and to be on par with Japan. Based on interviews with Korean restaurant owners in Malaysia and a survey of Malaysian diners, I argue for an emphasis on the role that Korean migrants play in inadvertently promoting hansik as part of the gastrodiplomatic negotiations in line with their processes of adaptation and settlement in Malaysia.
The Hansik Globalization Campaign: A Malaysian Critique
Gaik Cheng Khoo is Associate Professor of Arts at University of Nottingham Malaysia, where she works on food, film, and multiculturalism. Recent publications include Eating Together: Food, Space, and Identity in Malaysia and Singapore with Jean Duruz (Rowman and Littlefield, 2014), Malaysia's New Ethnoscapes and Ways of Belonging with co-editor Julian C.H. Lee (Routledge, 2015), and “The Cheapskate Highbrow and the Dilemma of Sustaining Penang Hawker Food,” Sojourn 31.1 (2017): 36–77.
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Gaik Cheng Khoo; The Hansik Globalization Campaign: A Malaysian Critique. Gastronomica 1 February 2019; 19 (1): 65–78. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2019.19.1.65
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