The coastal region surrounding Charleston, South Carolina—commonly referred to as the Lowcountry—is a place famous for its foodways. Lowcountry cuisine is often portrayed as convivial and celebrated as multicultural. This article argues, however, that much of the Lowcountry's food culture is marked by the region's history of racism. It is important not only to recognize this dominant tendency, but also to acknowledge attempts to challenge it. Thus, this article also highlights recent efforts to articulate an alternative vision of the region and its cuisine. By investigating what is at stake when regional cuisines are contested, I attempt to place the future of Lowcountry food on firmer footing.

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