The coastal region surrounding Charleston, South Carolina—commonly referred to as the Lowcountry—is a place famous for its foodways. Lowcountry cuisine is often portrayed as convivial and celebrated as multicultural. This article argues, however, that much of the Lowcountry's food culture is marked by the region's history of racism. It is important not only to recognize this dominant tendency, but also to acknowledge attempts to challenge it. Thus, this article also highlights recent efforts to articulate an alternative vision of the region and its cuisine. By investigating what is at stake when regional cuisines are contested, I attempt to place the future of Lowcountry food on firmer footing.
Lowcountry Visions: Foodways and Race in Coastal South Carolina
Levi Van Sant is a PhD candidate in geography and integrative conservation at the University of Georgia. His dissertation, entitled “Plantation Geographies: Agriculture and Racial Politics in the South Carolina Lowcountry,” explores the various forms of racial discrimination in agriculture in the coastal region surrounding the port city of Charleston, South Carolina, from the end of slavery to the present.
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Levi Van Sant; Lowcountry Visions: Foodways and Race in Coastal South Carolina. Gastronomica 1 November 2015; 15 (4): 18–26. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2015.15.4.18
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