This article explores a renowned Italian salume (cured meat product) made of many different pork oddments that give it a complex but melting texture. It is usually found in one of two forms, cotechino or—the chief focus of the article—the more demanding zampone. Both are associated with the Christmas-New Year's holiday season throughout the Emilia-Romagna region. For cotechino, a mixture of pork meat, tendons, rind, and bits of snout and jowl is filled into hog casings just as for other sausages; for the more demanding zampone, a similar mixture is stuffed into an almost completely deboned pig's foot. The article traces the history of zampone from Renaissance Modena to modern commercial versions; it then recounts the author's attempt to make it from scratch, as was done in his childhood in the Cape Cod village of Sagamore, a community of immigrants from Emilia-Romagna who long preserved traditions of home butchering and sausage-making.
Research Article| November 01 2012
On the Zampone Trail
john f. carafoli
john f. carafoli
john f. carafoli is a food stylist, consultant, and food writer. He is the author of the seminal book Food Photography and Styling as well as two children's cookbooks, Look Who's Cooking and The Cookie Cookbook. Carafoli's work has appeared in the New York Times, the Boston Globe, Edible Cape Cod, and Gastronomica. He is currently working on a cookbook centering on immigrants in a Cape Cod village.
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Gastronomica (2012) 12 (4): 91–95.
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john f. carafoli; On the Zampone Trail. Gastronomica 1 November 2012; 12 (4): 91–95. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2012.12.4.91
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