Analyzing the Israeli-Lebanese hummus wars, this article argues that both the competition to make the largest plate of hummus in the world and the Lebanese effort to trademark the term “hummus” within the European Union are attempts to legalize and concretize the concept of authenticity, which takes on increasing significance under the pressures of globalization and anxiety over homogenization. In addition it argues that “authenticity” is not determined by static tradition or heritage, but rather by practice. Hummus, therefore, is Israeli so long as it is consumed and understood as such by the Israeli population.
Research Article| February 01 2012
The Hummus Wars
ari ariel is a Dorot assistant professor/faculty fellow in the Skirball Department of Hebrew and Judaic Studies at New York University. He completed his Ph.D. in 2009 in the Department of Middle East and Asian Languages and Cultures at Columbia University. His work focuses on ethnic, national, and religious identity among Middle Eastern Jewish communities in the Arab world and Israel.
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Gastronomica (2012) 12 (1): 34–42.
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ari ariel; The Hummus Wars. Gastronomica 1 February 2012; 12 (1): 34–42. doi: https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2012.12.1.34
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